Acronym’s relentless focus on innovation pays off: Sonicated loves the P34-S for the subtle features that make it a unique cargo pant.
The P34-S is Acronym’s new battle dress uniform (BDU) trouser. It is part of the fall/winter 19/20 collection and built with a myriad of genuinely useful and hidden features.
Made in high-density gabardine cotton which is water resistant and windproof, the material is nice for cooler conditions. The pants are also offered in encapsulated nylon (P34-E) for warmer weather. Comparing the two materials, the cotton is much quieter, feels more natural and is also more structured than the nylon. On the other hand, the nylon is 30% lighter, has more stretch due to containing elastane and is less prone to creasing.
Style and fit
The P34-S lies midway between a wide/straight style pant and a tapered pant. Relatively straight from the waist to the knees, it transitions to a three point articulated knee before finishing off with a slight taper on the calves. The knee articulation provides an aggressive forward-leaning stance, even when standing straight. This is further accentuated by the forward-slanting cargo pockets and the unique panelling.
Normally a size 31 waist, I easily fit into a size S. The regular fit ensures ample room in the crotch and the articulated knees make the pants feel natural when sitting down with no pinching or tightness behind the knee. The pants are secured through a traditional button and zip fly, with wide belt loops to suit a wide variety of belts.
Styling the pants requires a degree of thought, given the tactical silhouette. It pairs well with parkas, bombers or other military inspired jackets. The adjustable hem ensures its compatibility with different styles of footwear.
Features
The P34 comes with an array of pockets. Starting from the top, the rear pockets are topped with a nylon tape which also acts as a cover flap. It’s a neat security feature that hides the pockets, at the cost of making them harder to access due to the rigidity and overlap. These are not pockets for quick access.
The two side slash pockets, aptly named Deep Pockets, are cavernous. They are also shaped in a unique way that allows for internal organisation. The back of the pocket has a nook into which keys and coins gravitate, while bigger objects move toward the front. The shape of the deep pockets effectively results in self-organisation, without the use of physical dividers.
Below the slash pockets are a security pocket on the left and a phone slash pocket (which is too small to fit modern-sized phones) on the right. The array of pockets is completed by the main cargo pockets which are pleated for expansion when carrying bulkier objects, and closed by snap buttons. Within the cargo pocket is a smaller slip pocket for organisation and behind the cargo pocket is a nifty full-size mezzanine pocket. The cargo pocket and mezzanine are slanted so that the contents will gravitate forwards for easy collection.
The hem has a built-in drawcord that locks in and actually stays put when knotted. This adjustment allows for versatility in the shape of the hem. Leave it open to pair with boots, or tighten it to slim the hem to suit svelte runners. Depending on if you cuff the pants, the hem adjustor can be hidden for a streamlined look or displayed for an interesting detail.
Everyday use
The cotton material makes these pants comfortable and discreet for everyday use in inclement to fair weather. The water resistance will hold up to a light shower, but eventually may wet through in heavier downpour. If you are in hot or humid conditions or plan for physical exertion, you could consider going with the encapsulated nylon variant instead. Being relatively straight, the pants are also comfortable to wear for extended periods of time, even when sitting down.
The downside of the cotton material and myriad of pockets is that at some point you start to feel the weight. The pants provide plenty of storage and organisation, however be forewarned that you will inevitably experience a mini heart-attack when you forget where your keys are placed while frantically patting each of the twelve separate pockets.
These pants do not come cheap, at €1,244. But then again nothing about them feels cheap.
Form: 8/10
The sharp, tactical styling paired with the regular silhouette makes it visually interesting, yet easy to integrate into a variety of fits without being too avant-garde. The RAF colourway showcases the panelling and details better than the black.
Function: 9/10
Acronym again managed to innovate on something as simple as the humble slash pocket. Deep, uniquely shaped pockets and slanted cargos add surprising amounts of functionality. The hem adjustors let you adjust the pant to your fit, which is another nice touch.
